I've made coats over the Christmas holidays for the last two years. 2012 was the Christmas of the White Coat. This coat needs some tweaking: I need to add shoulder pads, futz around with snaps on the lower front opening and so on. Lesson Learned from this coat: It's hard to wear a white coat in a dirty city! It's had very little use just because I'm so paranoid of getting it dirty, strictly a "special occasion" coat. 2013 was the Christmas of the Megan Draper coat. I still get a warm glow of joy from this coat; it's probably the most successful and ambitious thing I've ever made. I wore it constantly last winter. Lesson Learned: expensive materials pay you back in the end results and refinement is in the details. The Hem could do with some work, but it never bothers me enough to actually sit down and do it.
This Christmas I'm hoping I'm able to sew a coat too: the main challenge is the unsettledness of the next few months (I'm in the UK AGAIN to help my mother threw another health crisis). I don't have any materials with me so purchasing the fabric for this coat will require a schlep to London… and paying London prices. Once again, kudos to UK sewers. We in the US are spoiled by the relative availability of affordable, quality fabrics.
|Vogue from 1996.|
I've also had this royal blue coat pinned as an inspiration piece for years - longer, more of a traditional "coat" and simultaneously glamorous and effortless. Both coats share the military inspiration, which I love. The only pattern I have to work off of is this Burda from October, 2014. It's more or less perfect for the long coat, but would require alterations to make it work for the shorter look.
Here are my main questions about making the necessary changes to the pattern. a) The Burda WTF pattern has the kind of dart that runs down and across - i.e, the welt pocket in the line drawings is running over a horizontal line of stitching that extends to the side seam. If I used this pattern that line of stitching would be exposed. I would probably topstitch it and make it a feature (along with the other dart line) but is this considered a tailoring "no-no?" I suspect it is, but I also don't want to spend weeks sourcing another pattern.
b) I'd have to move the break line up and adjust the size and shape of the lapel - this seems an easy enough alteration, but wondering if experienced tailors have any tricks to ensure that the end result is harmonious and pleasing?
Of course the other thing to consider is that this is essentially a variation of the pattern I sewed last Christmas. I keep saying that I want my style to evolve and to become more modern. So, should I hold out until the January, 2015, Burda is released and sew this fabulous short coat instead?