Tuesday, September 30, 2014

Saint Laurent / Boo

I loathe Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent collections.  Where Prada is thoughtful, intelligent and layers meaning into her garments Saint Laurent is (now) the opposite: lazy, reductive and cynical. (Though one could argue I suppose that his cynicism is in fact "meaning" and that perhaps he is making some kind of ultra-meta commentary on the necessary repetition of unending fashion cycles. But somehow I doubt it).
Fashion critics tie themselves in knots trying to justify the "new" Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane's vision. The most astute observation I've read is that he is essentially a fabulous stylist, whose taken a bunch of Top-Shop level looks and zsushed them up with some couture-level construction and great accessories. 
I actually like some of these looks; they are exactly the way a certain kind of rock and roll twenty-something should dress. This look especially--
is fantastic in its multiple layers of Sunset Boulevard.  There's a more than a little Gloria Swanson in the turban and fur chubby. The slashed-to-the-navel disco dress and platforms reference the disco and punk era who made Sunset Boulevard their home in the seventies and eighties. So - clever layering.  I like it.  But that "like" is dependent on context; this look only works if the "girl"  wearing it pulled the individual pieces from her grandmother's closet, thrift shops and her own sewing machine.  It just doesn't make any sense with it takes a supposedly master designer and an army of the finest craftswomen in Paris to create it (and thousands of dollars to buy it).

 Every fashion blogger in the business is going to go insane for the shoes, and I get it.  Everything about these shoes spells glamour and decadence; these are dime-a-dancer shoes at ladies-who-lunch prices.  This is were criticism of Slimane gets more complicated; is this a joke, or some kind of wry commentary on the insanity of fashion?

Either way you certainly can't accuse him of originality.
Hooker chic isn't exactly a new idea, but I suppose he gets points for the brazenness of selling low-rent looks to high-rent clientele.

There were a few looks were the spirit of the original YSL pushed through the spangles and lurex:
Burda WOF did a great version of this jacket a few years ago.  I may have to dig it out and re-consider it as a possible autumn sewing project.

I always wonder what Betty Catroux does as she views these shows from the front row.  I imagine her anxiously looking at her nails and wondering when the hell she can get out of there.

Saturday, September 20, 2014

I'm back-ish / PRADA

Sort of at least.  No new makes to report; in fact this has been the longest sewing-less period of my post-teenage life (I don't call it "sewing-free" since that implies the lack of sewing is a good thing, which it isn't).  I suppose that at some point I will have to return to So Cal and make a commitment / choice about where I'm going to live, but if I can put it off for another month - well that's all right.

So, Prada.  I have a borderline unhealthy love for Prada--not for owning it, which is fortunate, but as a source of inspiration.  Miuccia Prada--more than any other designer than I can think of--is less a fashion designer than an artist who uses clothes as her medium.  Her collections always say more about the world than simply what rich ladies are going to wear in six months.  Tim Blanks wrote a brilliant review of this show--

Imagine a woman escaping into those purple-shaded dunes with the few scraps of her old life she could carry (including her platform clogs), then hanging on to those mementos and mending them lovingly. Clothes were pieced together, seams marked out for sewing, roughly picked out in topstitching, held together by leather and the occasional strip of brocade. Hems trailed threads; stuffing burst from pockets. Clothes that might have been rich in a former life were now beautiful fragments. There was a definite tug between rich and poor, not just in the collaging of gilded fabrics and humbler stuff, but in the way one neckline was threaded with diamonds, another defined by plain dark contrast stitching.

Miuccia's vision, which Tim Blanks seemed to see more clearly than any other reviewer, feels recognizable to me.  Is that what many of us are doing now anyway? Dealing with ever-diminishing economic horizons and the not-so-far-off promise of climate collapse and infrastructure failure?

And what will we be wearing when that moment arrives?

Or is that too much to read into a fashion show?

Either way I'm completely inspired by what she's done.  

Tuesday, July 01, 2014

I'm still alive.

The blog is on semi-hiatus for a while.  Not because of any further deterioration in my mental / emotional state but simply because I will not be sewing till the fall - thus - not much to talk about.  I am enjoying life - more or less. Right now I'm staying with some good friends outside of Ithaca, NY.  It's lush and lovely here, and every afternoon we go for pre-dinner ice-cream.  I'm not sure I totally believe my friends' philosophy that this is a better way of eating ice-cream than waiting till after dinner, but it's a fun ritual none the less.

We have a fabulous little creek on the property and every afternoon I go for a dip:

The "bathtub" is filled with little brook trout who come and nibble on your feet, like in a fancy Japanese pedicure.  I choose to find this amusing and even charming, though it feels a little odd.

More soon, and happy summer!

Thursday, May 01, 2014

Better Burdas, then and now.

Burda seems to have significantly upped their game in 2014.  Every issue has been a winner for me (funny, given that I've done almost no sewing!).  I'm stoked for the June 2014 issue too, especially the fabulous Indigo feature.  

All photos are from the fabulous  P-AN-DA blog. If you love Burda you need to be monitoring this blog - she always has the first pictures and line drawings of new issues. (Panda… if you want me to take down photos please let me know and I will)

The Indigo feature seems like the ultimate chic city wardrobe for the modern woman on the go.  If I didn't live in the middle of a field I would be all over it.

A few months ago Nhi lent me her stack of vintage Burdas - turns out Burda was just as brilliant in the 60s as it is now.  All these outfits are very Megan Draper in their bold colors but relatively simple shapes.  

Seriously - could anything go wrong when you are wearing this outfit?

Love, love, love the stripes

I must have this dress.

Ultimate Megan D. bikini.  And yet Don would probably still cheat on her, even in this.

Must have this cape.
I'm going to be honest and admit that I need to Get It Together ("Get it together Gr**ven" has been my internal motivational mantra for years…).  I'm probably in the middle of some slow-motion, mental health meltdown.  But I'll be ok.

Tuesday, April 15, 2014

Successful Failures in Skinny Jeans DIY

I sewed my first pair of jeans!  I'm calling these jeans a successful failure.  I don't actually love, love them, yet am still satisfied with the experience of making them - but more on that in a minute. These are the Burda "five pocket trouser" from the 3/2014 issues.  They have very detailed and illustrated instructions, which helped.

I had big plans for a late spring eve photo shoot outside, alas there is a distinct lack of photographers!  So selfies it is.

I'm happy with my rear.

I must growing wiser in old age, these are in no way perfect, yet I'm still quite happy with them. 

I was going for a matt black Oslo-chic look

It turns out that I have skinny and slim jeans mixed up.  Skinny=not a good look on me.  And these legs are SKINNY.  I have very puny calves, but the lower legs are still too tight for me and bunch weirdly around the knees.  This problem is mitigated when I roll up the hems and go for a 50's rockabilly kind of look.  Most of this is probably that my stretch denim isn't stretchy enough.  I had to go up a size to a 40 to accommodate the lack of stretch - everything would have worked better if I'd sewn my regular size 38 in a stretchier fabric.

The inner crotch seam (running from ankle to ankle) is  probably closer to a 38 now anyway, since I took that in a bit.

Interestingly my fabric has that old-fashioned, pre-Seven Jeans texture.  Do you remember buying jeans in the 80s?  When they felt like cardboard for the first month or so, till you slowly started to break them in? This is that kind of fabric (with a little lycra thrown in).  I don't actually mind it because it feels a little retro in an interesting sort of way.

The sewing was all very straightforward - no hiccups at all except for one major issue - sometime back in the mid-90s I made a few skirts that had a men's style trouser fly.  So, naturally, I figured I had that skill on lock.  If I'd done it once in the 90s I should be able to do it now.  Wrong.  My zip is buggered up.  I think that I should have scooted the zipper further over before I made the initial insertion - right now you can see the zip which obviously defeats the point of the fly.  Oh well - like I said - successful failure.  I think I understand what I did wrong and I'll do it right next time.  I can't get my Mom's machine to sew a zig-zag stitch - so no buttonhole yet.

I'm wondering if taking in the legs more would improve the overall look?
So - successful failure. I don't like the way the jeans look unrolled, but with the deep cuffs and capri length I think these have a certain vintage allure.

I love the backside of these jeans - I think they fit decently.
I added a small loop of black grosgrain ribbon to give it a bit of  Swedish design flair.  But in the future I think I'll use stretchier fabric, go down a size and use more convention jean legs to get a more flattering fit.

I would LOVE any constructive criticism on the fit...

Monday, March 31, 2014

Lady Gaga sews?

I'm not a Lady Gaga fan.  I appreciate the commitment to her creation, but it all feels very forced and not particularly original to me.  As Madonna once (very cuttingly) said; "she's reductive." i.e., making a simpler and cruder version of something that was once original.   Clearly she's also popular, since she's constantly on the cover of the various glossy magazines I love so much.

Still, this quote from the new issue of Porter jumped out at me.  It's in the text at the bottom:

I wonder what Lady Gaga sews.  Does she have skills?  Does she prefer a centered, lapped or invisible zipper?  Does she pad-stitch?  If she pad-stitched, would she wear the pad-stitching on the outside?  Can a Singer handle a slab of meat?  Feathers?

I don't know about you, but I'd buy a "Vogue Patterns by Gaga" pattern, just for the fun of it.  

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

The Great British (Vintage) Sewing Bee

Did anyone else watch The Great British Sewing Bee last night?  Silly question; of course you did.  What a fabulous, fabulous episode.  Spoilers aplenty ahead…

For starters it was a vintage themed episode.  Everyone arrived at the sewing space to find their modern machines had been replaced with 1930s era Singer 201s.  Tamara and Lynda took it in their stride (Tamara learned to sew on treadles, dreaming of being trusted with the electric version!), but everyone else was temporarily flummoxed by the retro gear.

The first project was a Bette Davis blouse from the 40s - I suppose the actual patterns were created by the production team, but they were faithful reproductions - no lines, just holes and notches to figure out what was quite a complicated pattern.  I was pretty impressed by the sewing!

Some of the finished blouses were quite nice - I have to admit I can't actually remember who won this segment.  I was more reeling in joy from the in-depth reporting pieces on the history of the Singer 201, and especially the revolutionary scheme Singer came up with to make these incredibly expensive machines affordable to everyday people.  Who knew that the Singers we all love to buy at flea markets used to be, "the most expensive thing in the house, other than the house itself."

This episode was an absolute joy of reportage - worth watching for the interviews alone - we learnt about how these mass produced sewing machines literally changed women's lives - and also how amazingly reliable they are.  "You set your stitch length at 8 stitches an inch - you get 8 stitches an inch!"

The next challenge was another classic 1940s era, "Made Do and Mend" style challenge. The contestants were given a man's suit to remodel.  Chinelo (who I think pretty much has this Season of the Bee in the bag), easily won with her frankly spectacular dress: 

Then it was the really fun stuff:  The sewers were given the task of creating (in six hours!) a vintage-inspired coat.  How brilliant!  The time allocated was somewhat nuts, but the contestants were allowed to sew a sample garment at home, and then cut their fabric beforehand to save time.  I love, love, love that someone at the GBSB gets what home-sewers are obsessed with right now.  Somewhere out there is a GBSB producer reading a ton of blogs and "getting it!"  Patrick specifically said he was looking for  "hair canvas, bound buttonholes, and other tailoring techniques" to give these coats that added quality.  A man after my own heart.

The sewers had all brought in pictures and vintage patterns to work from:

 Tamara and Lynda had great inspiration images

I loved Tamara's buttercup yellow coat - I actually had that pegged for a winner.  It was certainly my favorite out of the bunch.  I also loved David's vintage policeman's jacket:

Lynda sewed up Gertie's coat pattern, and got quite emotional discussing her Mum and how much her Mum had loved sewing - specifically tailoring.

In the end Lynda's Gertie coat won.  I don't have a great screenshot of it - the coat was black and hard to get a good snap of but she did an excellent job. I may go back and try again.  Chinelo's coat was oddly underwhelming - essentially the same Gertie shape as Lynda's, but she would have benefitted from using a pattern this time. David was sent home - very reluctantly - by the judges.  He was clearly much loved by his fellow contestants.

After a seriously crappy few weeks it was wonderful to watch this episode. It felt like it had been made for me.  A serious discussion of vintage sewing machines, vintage style and quality tailoring.  There is something so kind of nurturing about sewists - and this episode really reminded me of that. I wish I could fall into their jolly arms for a nice cup of tea.  Maybe I will get my own sewing mojo back soon!